Wicked International is back! [This non-blogging sister may have forgotten about her blogging duties last week…there’s a reason I don’t do this regularly]. The last time I posted, I did a photo-essay of our three days in the San Blas Islands, which are a group of approximately 365 islands in the Caribbean Sea that are under indigenous control after a successful 1925 rebellion (history!). We chartered a 38’ sailboat named Da Capo there for three days and three nights, which we spent going from island to island, stopping to snorkel, walk on the beaches, and string hammocks up between palm trees and laze the day away. It was really, really tough. My life is awful sometimes.
After that, Ryan and I headed up to Boquete, which is a town in the western highlands of Panama. It was quite a journey to get there. We woke up at some island in the Caribbean on the boat, then we boarded a huge canoe with an outboard motor attached for a one-hour trip to the mainland, where we arrived at some strange transportation depot and managed to get a ride in a stranger’s pickup truck for a four-hour drive through the jungle. From there, we boarded a bus for the 8 hour ride to David on the Interamerican highway. From David, we boarded a school bus with shark fins on top, disco lights inside, and about 40 too many passengers for the hour ride to Boquete. It may be important to note that we were scheduled to arrive in Boquete around 11 p.m. and we did not yet have any place to stay. This is very unlike me, but somehow it all worked out. We got off the bus and there was a hostel about 30 feet away and they had some extra beds!
I woke up the next morning to the sounds of birds chirping…hundreds of thousands of birds chirping. Boquete is located up in the mountains at about 3,000 feet of elevation and it has possibly the most wonderful climate I’ve ever experienced. The days were in the 70s, brilliantly sunny, and the nights got cool and in the 50s. Pretty much every day felt like those days in September when it’s warm enough to still wear summer clothes in the day, but it feels so cozy to throw on a sweater and jeans at night. Boquete also has some of the most amazing flowers and gardens I’ve ever seen. It seems that this climate is perfect for flowering plants and is a big destination for birds and bird enthusiasts.



Ryan and I spent 3.5 days in Boquete and I loved nearly every single minute of it. It’s becoming a prominent American retirement destination, so it was significantly easier for me to interact with others because English was spoken a little bit more. The food there was also a little bit more Americanized.
On our first full day, we spent the morning looking for nicer accommodations, which we found at Pension Topas. This was a nice little hostel with an outdoor area where the other guests stayed and hung out, so we got to meet a few other travelers. The area around Boquete is known for growing coffee beans, so that afternoon, we caught a cab out to the coffee plantation Finca Lerida. This was in both Lonely Planet and Frommer’s as having coffee tours for $16. When we got there, however, we learned that they jacked the price up to $35 per person. We were pretty bummed, but we decided to pay a $10 fee to just walk around the grounds on our own. The grounds were gorgeous and I’d say that it was worth the fee.


The inn at Finca Lerida
A waterfall we hiked out to.
Ryan with a huge tree…he likes trees.

Enjoying some very locally grown coffee.
That evening, Ryan and I went to the Panamonte Inn for what would turn out to be my favorite meal and evening of the entire trip. The Panamonte Inn is a nearly 100-year old hotel that was recently renovated. They have a formal dining room and a cozy bar and lounge. We picked it on a whim from the guide book and decided to eat in the lounge. This was such a great choice. The lounge/bar was half open into the beautifully manicured grounds. It had a subtle tropical vibe with bamboo furniture, comfortable patio couches around fireplaces, and fresh flowers everywhere. We snagged a couch in front of the fireplace and sat down to enjoy our evening, just the two of us…until two minutes later when the raucous group of American retirees asked if they could join us. Of course we said yes and we actually had a lovely time with our new retired friends. After a drink, we grabbed a regular table inside for dinner. The night had turned a little bit chilly and felt like fall, so I was in the mood for something hearty. I ordered another glass of malbec and the five spice pumpkin soup…this. was. amazing. Unfortunately, I don’t know what the five spices were, but I know curry and cinnamon were involved. I couldn’t get over how good this soup was. For my main dinner, I had a quinoa and tabbouleh salad, which was also amazing, and Ryan had the avocado BLT.
The Panamonte Inn from the street…

One of the cozy seating areas in the bar…


The single most amazing bowl of soup I have ever had. The “P” was some sort of curry oil and the line at the bottom was balsamic vinegar.
The next morning, we were up bright and early for a big adventure. As unbelievable as it sounds, the day before, Ryan ran into someone he knew – an old friend, Jim Omer, from his days working in Utah and Colorado. Jim runs Boquete Outdoor Adventures, which runs white water kayaking, sea kayaking, white water rafting, hiking, and a whole host of other adventure trips in Boquete and the surrounding areas. We chatted for a while and Jim set us up with a white water rafting trip for the following day. Jim runs things incredibly smoothly at BOA. We arrived at 8 a.m., chatted with the two other couples going on the trip, and headed out to the Chiriqui River for some class II and III rapids. Our guides were top notch (Pepito and someone else who wasn’t as awesome as Pepito). Ryan and I were in one boat with Pepito, and it seemed like Pepito decided to have some fun with us…this fun basically consisted of dumping me in the river multiple times and flipping the boat once. He did it knowing that we were in a spot where we couldn’t get hurt, or float away to certain death, so we had that going for us. We were on the river until about 1 p.m., had lunch on the riverbank, and then went back to Boquete. Jim also does multi-day trips. If I were to head back to Panama, I would definitely want to do one of the multi-day sea kayaking trips, which look absolutely amazing and totally worth every penny.

The Chiriqui River

Stopping for lunch

A well deserved post-rafting beer.
After a long day on the river, we had dinner and drinks at Big Daddy’s in Boquete, which had excellent fish tacos. We went to bed rather early that night as we had big plans for the next day…plans involving getting up at 4 a.m. and hiking the highest mountain in Panama, Vulcan Baru, 11,398 feet high, 8 miles in and 8 miles out. I like hiking and all, but the descent was really tough on my knees because the trail was loose gravel and I lost my footing about every three steps. So let’s not talk about that anymore…





What Ryan carried for the entire hike…
…and what Chrissy carried for the hike [I swear there was a very good reason for this unevenness]
That night, we somehow had no place to stay, so I decided to splurge and requested demanded that we head back to the Panamonte Inn for the night. We got a great little room right on the gardens, had dinner again in the lounge, and spent the morning walking around like tourists taking pictures of the flowers.


After that, we were heading off to Boca Chica on the Pacific Coast…more on that next week!